The pattern for the trusses was of my own design. I spent many hours over several days contemplating this design. Some research went into the design including a long discussion with the Fairbanks Truss Company. I must say that the fellas there were more than willing to tell me what I needed to know about building trusses. However, they claim that their engineered truss clips (the little metal ones) have more holding power than any type of plywood gusset nailed into the webs. I beg to differ and should state that, if designed correctly, a plywood gusseted truss can be built with greater integrity and strength than a truss built with "clips". I now have at least two feet (24") of snow load on this roof at this very moment (Jan 29, 2004) and have ZERO deflection on the bottom chord. Again, these trusses free span 36 feet from wall to wall (no interior load bearing walls) and show no signs of sag ....yet. Rest assured I will document any failure of this roof when and if it happens. Up to this point I fully expected it to happen but, now I have about 98% doubt that these trusses will fail.

Once again the design of the trusses are as follows: 2x6 top chord, 2x6 bottom chord, 2x6 king post, 2x4 web members and 3/4" plywood gussets. The gussets are fairly large to accommodate 2" ring shanked nails spaced at 1.5" - 2" apart. No glue was used on these gussets. Only nails. The trusses are spaced at 24" O.C. and are sheeted with 7/16 OSB (before the price of OSB went from $9.55 - $20.50 per sheet...thank god!

The first two trusses were raised by myself and Tonya. The next six were raised by me and my buddy Jon B. after that the rest of the trusses (8 more) were raised by myself. Time and patients. Some of the photos are missing so I will get them installed as soon as they turn up.

Using the second story floor as a base I laid out the pattern of the trusses with string and spray paint. Then I used short chunks of 2x4 nailed to the floor as a jig. In photo 1 you see one of the gable ends on the right and one truss on the left. The gable end uses vertical web members and the trusses used the "W" style layout for the web members.	Photo 1
Raising the trusses was diferent than raising the gable ends. The trusses were truned vertical but, upside down on the floor so the peak and one top chord was resting on the floor. I did this by raising one end with the red wall jack. Once this end was high enough the weight of the peak force the whole thing to flop (controlled flip) upside down. This end of the truss was high enough in the air then to place onto the top plate of the wall. Then, the top chord resting on the floor was raised up to the other top plate using the red wall jack.	Photo 2	missing photo
After 8 trusses were raised and set in place (photo 4) I had to build the other gable end and get it set in place. Then I had to build and raise four trusses and set them side by side (close together) on the top plate next to that gable end. (photo 5) This way I had room finish raising and setting the remaining three trusses coming from the other end (the end I started on).	Photo 4	Photo 5
After all the trusses were raised up onto the top plates, I had to side the four trusses staged next to the other gable end over and in place. Using some 2x4's for temp bracing and ropes I was able to lean the peak of each truss over then drag the bottom chords into place.	Photo 6	missing photo
After all the trusses and both gable ends were raised and set in place I used 2x4's for cross bracing in the web by nailing each 2x4 to at least three king post members as seen in photo 9.	Photo 8	Photo 9
Extra photos.